Shaifoura

Three things build the plate: crumbled shanklish, finely chopped tomato and onion, and olive oil poured over. Every house has its own version. Many add cucumber, green pepper, carrot, parsley or fresh mint. The sweetness of the tomato works against the sharpness of the cheese, and that balance is the whole idea.

What shanklish is

A cheese made from soured yoghurt, rolled into balls, coated in thyme and pepper, then dried and aged. Young, it is soft and mild; aged, it hardens and its smell fills the room. The coast around Tartus is held to make the best of it. Shaifoura is the most common way of bringing shanklish to a table, and the salad also goes by bazarkan.

From the coast inland

The plate is native to the tables of Latakia, Banyas and Tartus. During the last century families who moved from the coast into Homs, Hama and Salamiyah carried their taste for shanklish with them, and shaifoura is known inland today. Its home is still the sea side.

Where to eat it

At breakfast and on the evening table, as mezze. Restaurants in the coastal towns bring it as a starter, often without being asked. It is scooped with bread. On its own it sits heavy, and olives and tomato go well beside it.