Batersh

The mezze that carries the name of Hama. The aubergine is charred over fire, peeled, and mashed with yoghurt, tahini, garlic and lemon; spread flat on the plate, it is then covered with minced meat cooked in tomato and finished with crushed walnut or pine nuts and parsley. The lower layer is cool and sour, the upper one hot and rich — the whole idea of the dish is those two layers meeting in one mouthful.

How it differs from mutabbal

They come from the same aubergine, but mutabbal has no meat and only one layer. Batersh has yoghurt in it and meat on it, which is why it works both as a mezze plate and on its own as a main. Outside central Syria, many people have never heard of it.

Where to eat it

In and around Hama, inside the mezze spread. It is more common in home kitchens than in restaurants; ask for it in the mezze section, as not every place carries it.

How to eat it

With bread, not with a spoon. Biting into a green pepper alongside is the usual thing in Hama; the sharpness balances the cool of the yoghurt. Eat it hot — once the meat cools its fat sets.