Halawet el-Jibn

The sweet that carries the name of Hama. Fresh cheese is melted with semolina and sugar into an elastic dough, rolled thin on a marble counter, filled with clotted cream and turned into a roll. Syrup goes over it, then crushed Aleppo pistachio and rose water.

Why Hama

Hama is taken as the origin of the dessert, and the sweet shops of the city are still known for it. It is made in Damascus and Aleppo too; the difference is the cheese. Without fresh cheese that has had its salt drawn out, the dough will not stretch and the sweet turns rubbery.

Where to eat it

At sweet shops, by the tray or by the portion. The one made that day is the one to have; what has been sitting turns firm, because the cheese tightens as it cools. Asking for whichever tray is moving fastest on the counter is a sound tactic.

How to eat it

At room temperature and fresh. If it has come out of a fridge you can tell by the firmness, and both the taste and the texture drop. Plain coffee alongside balances it, because the sugar is high.