Muhammara

A mezze counted as Aleppo’s own invention. Roasted red pepper or pepper paste, pounded walnut, breadcrumb, pomegranate molasses, olive oil and cumin, crushed together and spread flat on the plate. The colour gives it its name — muhammar means turned red.

Where the taste comes from

Three tastes stack up: the heat of the pepper, the fat of the walnut and the sour-sweetness of the pomegranate molasses. The heat is not standardised; two restaurants in the same market will not agree on it. Made with Aleppo pepper, the heat arrives slowly rather than sharply.

Where to eat it

Inside the mezze round, with bread. Hummus, mutabbal and pickles come alongside it, and ordering it with kebab is common — the sourness does real work next to fatty meat. It is served all over the country, but it is most consistent in Aleppo.

How to order it

If you are not used to heat, say “not spicy” when you order; kitchens usually adjust. There is no version without walnut — that is the main ingredient, not a garnish.