Kibbeh

The common denominator of the Syrian table. The outside is a shell kneaded from finely milled bulgur; the inside is browned minced meat, onion and walnut or pine nuts. The thinness of the shell is the measure of skill — in Aleppo a cook is known by the shell of their kibbeh.

How many kinds there are

The best known is the torpedo shaped one, formed in the palm and deep fried. Beside it sit the layered version baked in a tray (kibbeh bi-siniyeh), the one simmered in yoghurt sauce (kibbeh labaniyeh), the Aleppine safarjaliyeh made with quince, and a version with lemon. The raw one (kibbeh nayyeh) is made from meat pounded that day.

Where to eat it

A permanent member of the mezze table; a plate of fried kibbeh in a restaurant usually holds four to six pieces. Market bakeries and street counters also sell them singly, which is the quickest way to eat one standing up. Every restaurant in Aleppo and Damascus has it.

How to order it

“Kibbeh maqliyeh” brings the fried one, “kibbeh bi-siniyeh” the tray. Ask for the raw one only somewhere busy — the meat has to have been pounded that day. If you want it hot, say so; a plate that has been waiting on the counter is handed over as it is.