Erq Sous

Dried licorice root is crushed, steeped in cold water through a cloth, and strained. What comes out is nearly black. Because it is poured from height, a finger of foam sits on top of every glass. The first sip is sweet, and then a sharp bitterness arrives at the back of the throat. One glass is rarely enough to decide; the second is where people settle.

How to spot the seller

By the sound. A brass urn is strapped across the back or chest, glasses hang at the waist, and two copper cups ride in one hand. He knocks them together as he walks, and that click is the whole advertisement. When he pours he raises his arm, and the liquid falls in a long line into the glass. That is not showmanship. It is how the foam is made.

When and where

Heaviest towards iftar in Ramadan and through the summer heat. In Damascus around Bab Srija and the Hamidiyah, in Aleppo at the entrances to the markets. Fixed shops sell it too, from a chilled dispenser, and the same shop almost always has tamarind syrup standing beside it.

Worth knowing

Licorice root can raise blood pressure, and it is known to do so when taken regularly. A glass while you walk is one thing; a daily habit is another. If you take medication for blood pressure, it is a question for your doctor before you make it routine. If the taste does not suit you, the same seller carries tamarind, which is gentler.