Damascus
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, built in the oasis the Barada river opens at the foot of Mount Qasioun. Every layer belongs…
- Founded
- 3rd millennium BC
- Population
- 2,500,000
- Best season
- April–May, September–October
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It sits at the foot of Mount Qasioun, in the oasis the Barada opened; every layer, from the courtyard of the Umayyad Mosque to the tin roof of the Hamidiyya, belongs to a different century.
Where to start
The old city reads in the right direction: enter by Bab Sharqi in the east and walk Straight Street west — from the Christian quarter to the khans, and on to the Umayyad Mosque. Enter the other way and the city spends its most splendid moment on you in the first minute. Save the Hamidiyya for the exit; stepping out of the souq between Roman columns onto the mosque wall is the old city’s best ending.
How long it takes
The old city asks for a full day; the Ayyubid and Mamluk buildings of Salihiyya and the viewpoint on Qasioun ask for a second. The courtyard of the Azm Palace and Nur al-Din’s bimaristan and bath fit in half a day.
Take care
The lanes of the old city are narrow and not for cars; parking nearby and walking is the only realistic way. On Fridays around midday the mosque courtyard belongs to prayer.
Highlights
- The mosaics in the Umayyad Mosque courtyard
- The bullet-pierced roof of Souk al-Hamidiyah
- The shaded courtyard of Azm Palace
Where to stay
If this is your first visit, stay in the old city: the small hotels converted from courtyard houses around Bab Touma and Qaymariyya are within walking distance of the Umayyad Mosque, the souq and Straight Street, and the lanes are quiet at night because cars cannot enter. Shaalan, Abu Rummaneh and Malki are the newer city — more conventional rooms, plenty of exchange offices and restaurants, fifteen minutes by taxi from the old city. Marjeh and the Hijaz area are cheap and close to the coach garage, but noisy. Wherever you stay, payment is cash and the hotel registers your passport.
