Ful medames

A morning plate. The beans simmer overnight on a low flame in a narrow necked copper pot; in the morning they are ladled out and roughly crushed in the bowl. Lemon, olive oil, garlic and cumin go over the top, and depending on the shop, mint, tomato and green pepper as well. A spoon may arrive, but everyone eats it with bread.

Where it comes from

The record belongs to Egypt; it is counted a national dish there and the oldest traces are Egyptian. In Damascus it became part of the morning order instead. The same shop turns out both ful and hummus, from the same counter at the same hour. So it is not a Syrian invention, but it is the backbone of a Damascus breakfast.

When it is eaten

Early. Ful shops open with the sun and the day ends when the pot does; go in the afternoon and you will find most of them shut. In Ramadan the order reverses and the shops open for the pre dawn meal.

What goes with it

Hummus, mutabbal, pickles, fresh mint and green olives. Tea to drink. A version with meat exists, but the standard one has none, which makes it the safest vegetarian plate on the table.

Where a traveller finds it

In the small shops around the Old City in Damascus, and on the same pattern in Aleppo and Homs. The sign often reads only “ful and hummus” in Arabic. Pick the crowded one — fast turnover means the beans were cooked that morning.