Jallab

A dark, almost black syrup sits at the bottom of the glass; ice and water go in on top and the colour turns purple as it is stirred. Toasted pine nuts and swollen raisins float on the surface — they are not decoration, they are eaten with it. The rose water reaches you as you lift the glass.

What it is made of

Molasses is the base: date molasses or raisin molasses, and in some recipes carob and grape molasses as well. Sugar, lemon and rose water go in after. The odd and defining step comes last. A dish of lit incense is set over the finished syrup and the vessel left covered for hours, so the smoke passes into it. Skip that step and the drink is still sweet, but the smoke is not there.

When it is drunk

It is a Ramadan drink, served on the iftar table right after water. It is heavy and sugared, which is the point: quick energy after a long fast, and it holds off thirst. It is available outside Ramadan too, but the stalls go up in that month.

Where to find it

By the glass at sharbat and juice shops. Bottled syrup is sold at grocers and spice merchants, so you can take it home and let it down with water — ask the seller for the ratio. The travelling sharbat vendors of old Damascus carry liquorice and tamarind; jallab is usually the fixed stall’s business rather than theirs.

How to order it

The strength of the syrup varies from place to place, so ask for water if it comes too thick. Pine nuts are charged separately in some shops, which is worth asking about. The sugar content is high, so anyone managing diabetes should skip this glass.