Labneh

The yoghurt drains in a cloth bag, salt goes in, and what is left is thick enough to spread and close to a soft cheese. What separates it from ordinary strained yoghurt is time and salt: labneh hangs longer and is seasoned. The Arabic name comes from the milk itself — laban, yoghurt.

Its place on the table

The centre of breakfast. It is spread across a plate, a pool of olive oil is opened in the middle, and za’atar or dried mint is scattered over it. Green olives, cucumber, tomato, fresh mint and hot bread sit beside it. It also appears in the evening mezze round, but morning is its real hour.

The balls are a separate craft

As part of the winter store, labneh is rolled into balls by hand and packed into jars of olive oil. They keep for months. They are eaten straight from the oil, with bread. In the market you will see them submerged in the jars on the counter.

Where to eat it

Anywhere in Damascus that serves breakfast, and on every hotel morning table. Dairy counters sell it by weight or by the tub. Street bakeries spread it over manakish dough and bake it. Neither costs much.

How to order it

“Labneh bi-zeit” brings the plate dressed with olive oil. Cow’s milk is the common version. Goat’s milk is sharper, and the counter will tell you which one you are getting. Salt levels vary from maker to maker, so say if you want it light.