Shawarma

Slices of marinated meat are stacked on a vertical spit, the spit turns in front of the fire, and the outer surface is shaved off in thin strips as it cooks. The name comes from the Turkish cevirme, to turn. It exists in every city of the Levant, but Damascus and Aleppo part ways on how it is dressed.

The difference between the two

In Damascus garlic sauce (toum) dominates, with pickles and mint beside it, and the bread is thin and rolled tight. In Aleppo chilli and pomegranate molasses are used more. Chicken usually comes with garlic sauce, lamb and beef with tahini.

Where to eat it

At counters inside the markets and at shops that open in the late afternoon. The spit fills up after midday and is at its freshest between seven and nine in the evening; late at night what is left is the base of the cone.

How to order it

“Sandwich” gets you the wrap, “sahn” a plate of meat with the trimmings. Sauce and pickles come as standard — if you do not want them you have to say so.