Syrian falafel

Syrian falafel is made from chickpeas. In Egypt the same name means a fava bean fritter, called taamiya, and the difference is not only the ingredient — the taste is another thing. In Damascus and Aleppo the falafel shop is a trade of its own: it opens early and runs out of dough by the afternoon.

The chickpeas are not boiled

This is the first rule of the recipe. The chickpeas are soaked overnight but never boiled. Dough made from boiled chickpeas falls apart in hot oil. The soaked raw chickpeas are ground with onion, garlic, parsley and coriander; cumin and red pepper go in, baking powder is added at the last moment, and the fritters go straight into the oil.

Why there is a hole in the middle

In most places Syrian falafel is not a round ball. It is pressed flat, with a hole or a dip in the centre, shaped by a hand mould. That hole does work: a thick ball stays raw inside, while the one with a hole cooks through and keeps the same crust thickness all over.

How it is eaten

Three ways. On a mezze plate, with tarator, the tahini sauce, beside it. In bread: pickles, parsley, tomato, tarator, and chilli paste for those who want it. And at breakfast, next to ful and hummus — the same counter sells all three, and that is how the morning table is usually built.

What to ask at the counter

Because the dough breaks up in the fryer once it has stood, it is ground in batches. That is the question to ask: when was the last batch ground. Falafel from freshly ground dough has a crisp shell and a moist centre; what is left by midday goes hard. On price, falafel counts among the cheapest filling meals in Syria.