One day around Latakia: Ugarit, Kessab and Saladin Castle

Three sides of Latakia fit into one day: a Bronze Age mound to the north, a town among the pines up in the mountains, and a castle on a ridge between two ravines to the east. 160 kilometres in all, about nine hours, and every part of it by car. The view changes three times over the day — coastal plain, mountain air at 800 metres, then a moat cut out of solid rock. The roads wind and the last stretch is narrow; do not leave the driving until dark.

The route

Leave Latakia going north. Ugarit is 11 kilometres out, just east of the coast road; look for the Ras Shamra sign. There is no shade on the mound, which is why you go early. Then keep north: Kessab is 54 kilometres on, and the road leaves the coast to climb, the last half hour all bends. From Kessab the road to the castle drops south and swings inland: 58 kilometres, about an hour and a half. The final seven kilometres are narrow and winding, ending east of Haffa. The way home is the short one — 37 kilometres from the castle to Latakia, 45 minutes.

Timing

Leave Latakia at 08:00. From 08:30 to 10:00 at Ugarit is enough for the palace ruins and the archive rooms on its northwest side. You reach Kessab around 11:30; take the midday break there, since the town stays cool even in summer. Back on the road at 13:00. You arrive at the castle at 14:45, when afternoon light strikes the rock of the moat from the side and the stone needle is fully visible. Leave at 16:15 and you are in Latakia by 17:15. The castle usually closes at 17:00, earlier in winter — check at the gate.

Take care

This is a long day, and four hours of it are spent driving. There is little shade at any of the three stops; take a hat and water, because none is sold at the castle. Kessab gets snow in winter and the road can close, so ask about it before setting out in that season. Ugarit is a remote site and the keeper is not always at the gate; a phone call first saves time. The ground at the castle is stone and sloped, and shoes with grip make it easier. Entrance fees change, so carry cash. April to June and September to October are the easiest months.