One day in Tartus: Amrit, Arwad and Safita

A day that goes three ways out of Tartus: south to Phoenicia, out to sea to Arwad, east to a Crusader keep. The order is not arbitrary — Amrit in the cool of the morning, the island in the afternoon, and the roof at Safita is at its best towards sunset.

The road

Head south at eight. Amrit is seven kilometres out, turning inland off the coast road; allow an hour and a half for the Maabed temple, the funerary towers and the stadium. Come back to Tartus and take the Arwad boat from the jetty on the corniche. Three hours on the island: the harbour, the boatyards, the castle terrace. On the way back, turn east and drive the forty kilometres inland to Safita. The climb to the tower from the town is on foot.

Timing

Be at Amrit at eight, at the jetty by eleven, back from the island by two. Reach Safita before four: from the tower roof, looking east, the line towards Krak des Chevaliers opens up, and that view reads best in raking light. An hour back to Tartus.

Take care

The boats to the island run without a timetable and leave when they fill; ask the time of the last one back as you board. Amrit and Safita both need a car — public transport is not practical. The day is full: drop Safita and the same route becomes a relaxed one.