Al-Hamidiyah, the Old Christian Quarter of Homs

Al-Hamidiyah is the old Christian quarter of Homs, and one of the few parts of the city that keeps its older look. It lies north of the citadel, along the northern edge of the old city. Most of its buildings, with their alternating courses of black basalt and white stone, date from the Mamluk era, when sultans based in Egypt ruled Syria. They are still used as shops and homes.

The spine of the quarter

Hamidiyah Street holds the quarter together. Quwatli Street, coming from the city centre, takes this name after the square with the Old Clock. The street cuts right through the old quarter and carries on to the eastern edge of the city.

Black and white stone

What sets al-Hamidiyah apart from the rest of the city is the stone. The black basalt of Homs is laid in alternating courses with white stone, a technique known in Arabic as ablaq. Most of the buildings are Mamluk and still in use. Some have been renovated in recent years. The old city was badly damaged in the war; repaired buildings and ones still waiting for repair stand side by side.

Which churches are here

Several churches stand in the quarter or on its edge: the Umm al-Zunnar Church, the Syriac Catholic Cathedral of the Holy Spirit from 1912, and Armenian and Maronite churches. Qasr al-Zahrawi is on the edge of the quarter, towards Bab Tadmur. The Forty Martyrs Cathedral is in the same old city.

How to walk it

Starting at the Old Clock at the west end and walking east along Hamidiyah Street takes you through the quarter from end to end. The churches are places of worship, so ask before going in during a service. This is not a monument but a living neighbourhood. What you come to see is the fabric of the streets, not one building.