One day in Hama: from the norias to Apamea

The order that explains Hama in a day. The morning is the city’s own story — the river and the wheels it turns — and the afternoon is the great site around it: Apamea.

The road

Start at the riverbank. The walkway passes both of the largest wheels; walk as far as the point where the aqueduct begins, then turn back. Ten minutes inland is the Azm Palace: courtyard, iwan and painted ceilings. After lunch head northwest; fifty-five kilometres on, beside Qalaat al-Madiq, the colonnaded street of Apamea begins.

Timing

Be at the wheels by half past eight — the morning is cool and the bank empty. The Azm Palace at ten, on the road by noon. Reaching Apamea towards late afternoon is best: the fluting on the shafts reads in raking light and flattens out at midday.

Take care

A car with a driver is needed for the afternoon; public transport to Apamea is not practical. The colonnaded street runs close to two kilometres with no shade — take water and a hat. The return is about an hour; set off before dark.