Kibbeh Safarjaliyeh

The name comes from the fruit: safarjal is Arabic for quince. Kibbeh balls of bulgur and minced meat go into a broth built from quince slices, pomegranate juice and pomegranate molasses, along with chunks of lamb or beef. What comes out is sour, faintly sweet and dark.

Why it belongs to Aleppo

Aleppo counts its kibbeh varieties in dozens, and most of them have spread across Syria; safarjaliyeh is one of the few that stayed home. The city’s cooking is built on holding sour against meat, and kebab karaz and muhammara come out of the same instinct.

When to eat it

Quince season sets the calendar: autumn and winter. It is a heavy, warming dish and there is no point looking for it on a summer menu. Some tables serve it as a first course, others as the main that follows the mezze.

Where to find it

In the traditional restaurants of Aleppo, in season. It is more common in home kitchens than in restaurants; if it is not on the menu, ask what the seasonal dishes are. Plain white rice comes alongside, and the sour broth is spooned over it.