Ariha and Jabal al-Arbain

A town south of Idlib, at the northern foot of Jabal al-Zawiya on the Aleppo–Latakia road, and the centre of Ariha district. It is also called Riha. The road to the Dead Cities of Jabal al-Zawiya, such as al-Bara and Serjilla, turns off here. To the south, 877-metre Jabal al-Arbain looks out over the Idlib plain.

The town’s past

The name is said to mean sweet scent in Aramaic. Under Rome and Byzantium the town belonged to Antioch, and between 240 and 350 it was an important Christian centre. Amr ibn al-As took it in 636 and attached it to the military district of Qinnasrin. In 1226 Yaqut al-Hamawi described it as a small town in the Aleppo region, listing its gardens, orchards and streams and calling it one of the loveliest places on earth.

The earthquake of 1822 hit the town hard. In the mid-19th century Albert Socin recorded a population of about 3000 and a fine setting among olive groves. The 2004 census counted 39501 people.

Khans and fountains

In the early 20th century four khans, merchants’ inns built around a courtyard, stood at the edge of town: Bazar, Suq, Shaybani and Qaysariyya. Seven qastals, public fountains fed by the Ayn springs, supplied the town with water. We could not verify which of them still stand.

What is on Jabal al-Arbain

Jabal al-Arbain, just south of town, is 877 metres high; its traditional name is Jabal Bani Ulaym. It is where local families have long spent the summer. In winter it holds snow, and it is known for its cave. From the slope, the town and the olive-covered Idlib plain lie below you. During the civil war the military posts on the mountain saw heavy fighting in 2014.

What Ariha is known for

Cherry, fig and mahlab orchards; mahlab is the kernel of a wild cherry, used as a spice. The town is regarded as the home of the fig in Syria.

Getting there

Head south from Idlib; the Aleppo–Latakia road runs through town. Jabal al-Arbain is just to the south, and asking in town for the way up is enough. Roads and checkpoints change; check the current situation before you set out.

How long it takes

Two hours for the town and Jabal al-Arbain. A full day with al-Bara and Serjilla.

Don’t miss

The view over the plain from Jabal al-Arbain. From the gardens Yaqut praised to the olive groves Socin saw, the town’s whole story lies below in a single look.