20th-century Aleppo on foot: from Baghdad Station to Bab al-Jinan

Aleppo’s 20th century is not inside the old city but in the broad streets to its north-west. This walk reads that city in order. The station opened in 1912 as a stop on the Berlin–Baghdad railway. The Public Park opened in 1949, Villa Rose went up in pink stone in 1928, the National Museum was founded in 1931 and the first stone of the clock tower was laid in 1898. The last stop is the site of Bab al-Jinan, pulled down around 1900 to widen the road. 2700 metres, six stops, and you finish on the western edge of the old city.

The route

The station is on Baghdad Street. Step into the ticket hall, then walk south: the northern end of Aleppo Public Park is close to 800 metres. Inside the park, go down the main axis to the fountains, see the Queiq, and leave by the north exit into Aziziyah; Villa Rose is 450 metres on, on Saadallah al-Jabiri Street. From the mansion walk 900 metres south to Baron Street; this is the longest leg, and the National Museum stands on that street. From the museum to Bab al-Faraj square is 200 metres, with the clock tower in the middle. Walk 270 metres south from there and you are at Bab al-Jinan. There is no gate; there is a souq that carries its name, and the line of the lanes.

Timing

You are at the station by 09:00; the hall is open in the daytime and half an hour is enough. Enter the park at 09:45. Early morning is its easiest hour and there is little shade at midday; give it an hour. At 11:00 you are on the far pavement opposite Villa Rose, for twenty minutes. Reach the museum at 11:30. Which halls are open varies; if they are, give it an hour, and if not, keep this stop short. At 12:35 you are at the foot of the clock tower, for fifteen minutes. Around 13:00 you walk into the Bab al-Jinan souq, and the walk ends there.

Take care

At the station you cannot reach the platforms without a ticket. Services change fast: test trains between Aleppo and Hama started running again in August 2025, and the Damascus line’s status varies; if you plan to travel on by rail, ask at the station. Villa Rose is private property and lived in; there is no way in, so do not try the garden gate. The street is wide and busy, so take care crossing to the far pavement. The park gates close in the evening. The museum’s entry fee and open halls need checking at the door; the other stops are free. The clock tower cannot be entered. The Bab al-Jinan souq is calmer in the morning, while the stalls are being set up; on this route you reach it around midday. Bab Antakiya is 400 metres south of the souq if you want to stretch the walk.