Half a day in Aleppo: four stops from the clock tower to the citadel square

Everyone who circles the citadel of Aleppo passes these four buildings, and most do not go in. The walk starts in the quarter behind the clock tower, crosses to the north of the citadel, then rounds it on the south side and ends at two buildings on the edge of the square: 2100 metres, four stops. There are two long legs; both are under a thousand metres and both go through the street fabric of the old city.

The route

Bahsita lies in the quarters between the Bab al-Faraj clock tower and the National Library of Aleppo, one lane in from the main street. The mosque is small, and when you ask the way it is the name of the quarter that works, not the name of the mosque. From there walk 920 metres east, to Farafira, north of the citadel. The khanqah is entered from a narrow lane rather than a front; the entry is not straight, the corridor breaks once, and that keeps the courtyard out of sight from the street. Then round the citadel on the south: 960 metres brings you out on the citadel square, opposite the ramp. The Sultaniyya Madrasa is the stone front behind the palms, and its muqarnas portal shows from the square. The last leg is 250 metres south, into the Ajam quarter. The front of Al-Otrush is the most carved stone on this walk.

Timing

Be in Bahsita at 09:30. The band of inscription that runs around the octagonal minaret reads in morning side light. Reach Farafira before noon; the courtyard is small and falls entirely into shadow in the afternoon. Coming out on the citadel square towards midday is right, because the front of the Sultaniyya faces south and takes the light head-on at that hour. Leave Al-Otrush until last: the carving deepens in the slanting light of the afternoon and flattens at noon. If the citadel itself is going into the same day, put this walk in the morning and climb up afterwards.

Take care

Three of the four stops were damaged in the war and repairs continue. Which of them you can go inside changes from month to month; do not press at a closed door. The citadel square is level, but the lanes leading up to it carry rubble and broken paving, so wear shoes that grip. In the mosques, cover shoulders and knees and stay out of the prayer hall at prayer times. There is no shade on the square or around the citadel; the last two stops are hard at midday in summer. Winter light goes early, and starting at 09:30 keeps the day from tightening.