Christian heritage from Homs to Tartus: five stops in two days

Five buildings stand along the hundred kilometres between Homs and Tartus, and all five belong to a Christian presence that never stopped. Two churches in the old city, a castle above the Valley of the Christians, a tower with a working chapel on its ground floor, and a Crusader cathedral on the coast that is now a museum. It comes to 119 kilometres over two days. The drive is short because what matters here is the order, not the distance: oldest to newest, inland to the sea.

The road

It begins in the old city of Homs. The Church of Umm al-Zunnar and the Church of Mar Elian are a few minutes’ walk apart; you only get back in the car after the second one. From there it is 52 kilometres west to Krak des Chevaliers, the road entering the Valley of the Christians and climbing at the end.

On day two you come down northwest from the castle: Safita is 28 kilometres. The tower crowns the highest point of the town and the last stretch is a walk uphill. Safita to Tartus is 36 kilometres; the cathedral stands inside the old city and the sign on the door says museum, so do not go looking for a second entrance.

Timing

Be in the old city of Homs at 09:00 on day one. Both churches are free and open outside services; at Umm al-Zunnar the part worth seeing is the low-ceilinged room below ground, and at Mar Elian it is the crypt. Do not leave without going down into it, because the frescoes are there. The two together take two hours. Move on to Krak in the afternoon: the castle is open 09:00–17:00 and the inner courtyard falls into shade after mid-afternoon. Spend the night at Al-Husn below the castle.

Leave early on day two. Reach Safita before noon; the chapel is a working church and closes during services, so ask at the door. Go up to the terrace and look east, where the line towards Krak opens up. Arrive in Tartus in the late afternoon: the west front of the cathedral catches the light then, while in the morning it flattens out against the sun.

Take care

Mar Elian was founded in 432, and the frescoes in its crypt are held to be the oldest surviving church paintings in Syria. The church fills up for the feast on 6 February, so go on another day if you want to see them in peace. Three of the stops are places of worship: cover shoulders and knees, and do not photograph during a service. Repair work is under way in the old city of Homs and some streets may be closed, so leave the car at the edge rather than driving in. No fixed entry tariff could be verified at Safita or Tartus — check on arrival. The valley road is foggy in winter, and in summer neither the castle nor the tower offers shade.