A day in the Valley of the Christians: the villages, the monastery and Krak des Chevaliers

Most visitors see Krak des Chevaliers on its own and cut the castle off from what surrounds it. The castle stands inside a valley: on the same slope there are 32 villages, a monastery and a statue on a hilltop. This day links the three in order. 110 kilometres in all, by car, and what sets the order is the afternoon shade inside Krak.

The route

Leave Homs heading west. Once you are in the valley, drive through the villages rather than following the main road; the Greek Orthodox towns run into one another and the view changes at every bend. The road up to the statue of Our Lady of the Valley is narrow and steep, so allow for the driving. At Meshtaye, go into the Mar Girgis monastery: there are three churches, and the oldest one and the chapel are below the courtyard, so you have to go down a level. The two columns at the entrance are Byzantine; the door itself is not. From there Krak des Chevaliers is fifteen minutes south.

Timing

Be in the valley around 09:00; morning light takes the slope from the side and the village roads are empty. Reach the monastery before noon, as the courtyard fills in the afternoon. Go up to Krak after 14:00: the castle is open from 09:00 to 17:00 and the inner court falls into shade in the afternoon, while in the morning the same court comes out bleached. Leave the south-west tower to the end — on a clear day the Mediterranean shows from there. Allow two hours at the castle; it does not take a rushed visit.

Take care

Public transport between the villages is sparse, so plan the day around a car and arrange the way back too. The stone stairs at Krak are worn and slippery, and smooth soles make them hard work. The monastery is a working place of worship: visits may be restricted at service times, and shoulders and knees should be covered. On 6 May and 14 September both the monastery and the villages are very busy; if you come on those days, arrange a room in advance. The entrance fee changes, so confirm it at the gate.