Saint George’s Monastery (Deir Mar Georges)

A Greek Orthodox monastery in the village of al-Mishtaya, in the middle of the Valley of the Christians. It stands a few kilometres north of Krak des Chevaliers, and most people who come to the valley take the two in one day. Tradition holds that the monastery was founded in the 6th century, under Justinian, over the remains of an older temple; the name al-Humayra is said to come from that temple.

Getting there

The road through the valley leads straight into the monastery courtyard. About an hour from Homs, and roughly fifteen minutes from Krak des Chevaliers.

How long it takes

An hour. The upper church goes quickly; the time is spent in the older chapel below.

What to see

The monastery is made up of three churches plus modern buildings around them; the oldest is about 1500 years old, the second 900, the third 150. The present church was rebuilt in 1857. The entrance has a triple arch and two supporting columns of Byzantine origin, and a large carved stone stands at the southern gate. Inside, the wooden iconostases carry heavy carving and gold-ground icons showing scenes from the life of Christ. The monastery also keeps a collection of crosses, manuscripts, books and vessels. The site covers 6000 square metres and is built entirely in Byzantine-style stone.

What most visitors miss

What lies under the courtyard. Down the stairs is a chapel from the 13th century, its iconostasis smaller and more than three hundred years old, its icons showing the life of Saint George. From the same level a doorway opens into what is believed to be the original 6th-century monastery, along with several large amphorae. The two busiest days are 6 May, the feast of Saint George, and 14 September, the feast of the Elevation of the Holy Cross.