Latakia to Jableh in half a day: from the arch to the theatre

The oldest thing still standing in Latakia is a Roman arch. In the middle of the town 29 kilometres to the south stands a Roman theatre with 35 rows of seats. This half day links the two: one stop in the city, then the coast road, then three stops close together in Jableh. The day opens by car and closes on foot.

The route

Start on Port Said Street. The arch stands inside a park, has no gate and shows from the street; all four of its faces carry an arch, so you have not really seen it until you have walked around it. From here take the coast road and keep south: Jableh is 29 kilometres, half an hour of driving. Shared minibuses run the same line and the drop-off is a few streets from the centre. Once in the town, leave the car. The old centre is not a single square but a set of lanes joined by arched passages: the theatre on one side, the mosque and tomb on the other, the fishing harbour below. The theatre is 100 metres in from the centre and shows from street level. The mosque is 300 metres on; the domes and the minaret pick out from the square, and whoever finds the theatre finds the mosque.

Timing

Be at the arch by 09:00. The sandstone surfaces are worn by sea damp; the carved sword, shield and helmet still read in the slanting light of the morning, and flatten out at midday. Set off at 10:00 and be in Jableh around 10:30. Spend an hour in the old centre. Enter the theatre at 11:30: the corridor 4 metres wide that runs under the seating is cool, and at midday it is the only shelter there. Move on to the mosque around 13:00, that is, after the noon prayer, since visiting stops while it is held. In the afternoon you can walk down to the harbour and end the day there.

Take care

The arch sits in an open park with neither hours nor ticket. Repair work continues at the theatre and sections may be closed; the fee is set at the entrance and there is no fixed tariff. The mosque and tomb are in use: visiting stops at prayer times, shoes come off, women are asked to cover their hair, and quiet is expected in the tomb chamber. You can reach Jableh by minibus, but ask about the last service back before you set out; evening runs thin out. The steps of the theatre are uneven and there is no railing. Coastal humidity is heavy in summer; spring and autumn are easier for this route.