Masyaf to Al-Kahf: the Ismaili castles of the coastal range

The Nizari Ismailis held two centres in Syria and both sit inside the coastal range: Masyaf on a single mass of rock above the plain, Al-Kahf on a narrow spur between two deep valleys. This route ties them into one day. Husn Suleiman comes in between; it is not an Ismaili castle but a Roman temple at 950 metres, and the road runs straight past its gate, so skipping it would be a waste. 62 kilometres in all, three stops, almost all of it mountain road.

The route

Start at Masyaf; coming from Hama the town is an hour away. The climb to the castle goes through the town, short but steep. From there head southwest: Husn Suleiman is 24 kilometres on, fifty minutes. Short distance, long time — the road climbs the whole way and the bends never stop. After the temple you turn northwest and the slowest stretch of the day begins: Al-Kahf is 38 kilometres, close to an hour and a half, the last part narrow. No car reaches the castle. The single entrance is a path halfway up the north slope, invisible from below; asking for directions in Sheikh Badr saves time.

Timing

Be at Masyaf at 08:30. Courtyards, cisterns and the upper terrace take an hour and a half. Go up to the terrace and look east: one glance explains why the castle was built on this rock. Saladin laid siege here in 1176 and withdrew without taking it. By 12:00 you are at Husn Suleiman; an hour is enough, but step under the west gate and look up, because the eagle relief is there. Be at the foot of Al-Kahf around 15:00. The path and the castle together want an hour and a half, and the late light rakes across the 170-metre outer court on the spur. Rashid al-Din Sinan died here in 1193 and was buried here.

Take care

All three stops involve walking and the ground is stony; shoes with grip are not optional. The path at Al-Kahf is narrow, its edge unprotected, and it turns slippery after rain. In winter fog closes these roads; spring and autumn are the right seasons. No food is sold at any of the three stops, so buy lunch and water in Masyaf town. On the way back, dropping down to Tartus is shorter than returning to Masyaf; choose where you sleep accordingly.