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Damascus · 18th century

The Azm Palace

A Damascene house built for an Ottoman governor in 1749. Bands of black basalt and white limestone, a shaded courtyard, and the folk museum inside it today.

Entry
Varies — confirm at the gate
Duration
75 minutes
Best time
Morning, while the courtyard is in shade
Period
Ottoman
Address
Near the Bzouriyah souq, Old City, Damascus

The grandest Damascene house still standing. It was built between 1749 and 1752 for As’ad Pasha al-Azm, the city’s Ottoman governor. From the street it is a plain wall; through the door a courtyard opens up with lemon trees and a pool. Nothing outside, everything inside — that inversion is the whole logic of Damascene architecture.

Getting there

South of the Umayyad Mosque, entered from the Bzouriyah souq. It is a few minutes’ walk from the souq to the palace door.

What to see

The building splits in two: the haramlik where the family lived and the salamlik where guests were received. The black-and-white banding on the walls — it is called ablaq — sets the region’s two stones side by side. Today it holds the Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions, with Damascene mother-of-pearl inlay, silk and household objects laid out room by room.

Do not miss

The main hall on the north side of the courtyard has a painted wooden ceiling, and most visitors walk through without looking up. The palace was badly damaged in the French bombardment of 1925 and then repaired; some of the woodwork you see is that repair.

Tips

  • Look up in the north hall: the ceiling is painted wood
  • Morning light for photographs; the courtyard takes hard sun after noon
  • Entering from the Bzouriyah souq takes you past the spice merchants