Khan al-Safarjalaniyya

Built in 1757 to 1758, this is one of the oldest khans left from the Ottoman period. It stands beside the Umayyad Mosque in the Qaymariyya quarter, on the east side of the arms souq. The plan is simple and easy to read: a corridor 10 metres long leads to a court roofed with three half-domes. The name comes from the Safarjalani family, who ran the place.

Getting there

Walk east from the Umayyad Mosque towards Qaymariyya. The khan lies on the east side of the arms souq, and its door disappears among the houses around it. There is no sign. Look for the mouth of the corridor.

What to see

The court is small and shaded. A pool sits at its centre. A few trees stand along the edge, and the three half-domes above them each leave a round opening in the middle, which is where the light comes down. The cells on the ground floor are shops and stores today, and the stone of the arches reads through the whitewash.

How long it takes

15 minutes. It is a natural stop on a Qaymariyya walk and sits on your way if you are exploring the quarter.

Don’t miss

The moment you step out of the corridor into the court, stop and look back. From the dark passage the court reads as a square of light. Every Damascus khan builds this transition, but here the distance is short and the effect is sharp.

What is not known

The current state of the building is read from photographs taken after 2008 and has not been checked on the ground. Do not be surprised to find the door shut; ask in the neighbouring shops.