The Umayyad Mosque

Completed in 715. Before it stood a Byzantine church, and before that a temple of Jupiter; the gold mosaics on the western wall of the courtyard are the most splendid survival of that first building.

What to see

The courtyard is the heart of it: marble floor, three minarets, and the green-and-gold river landscapes of the mosaics. In the prayer hall stands the shrine attributed to John the Baptist — this is one of the rare buildings visited by two faiths. The eastern minaret is known as the Minaret of Jesus. The marble floor glares at midday; mosaic detail reads best in the slanted morning light.

Visiting

Open outside prayer times; entry for tourists is paid and the fee varies — confirm at the gate. Women are given an abaya at the entrance. Shoes come off in the prayer hall; socks help on the hot summer marble of the courtyard.

Take care

On Fridays around midday the courtyard belongs to prayer; do not plan your visit into that window. Keep worshippers out of your frame.