A day in Palmyra

Small distances, long day. There are sixteen kilometres between the three stops, and the reason for spreading that over a day is not fatigue but light: in the desert the middle hours are both shadeless and unphotographable.

The route

Start on the colonnaded street in the morning — enter from the west end and walk towards the theatre and the agora. Around noon go back to the vehicle and cross to the valley in the west; the tower tombs are there and they are not within walking distance. Spend the afternoon in shade, then climb to the castle.

Timing

Be at the ruins at seven. Cross to the valley at eleven. Rest between noon and three — the site passes 45 degrees in those hours and the vertical light flattens the stone. Go up to the castle at five; sunset is watched from there and the ruins below resolve into lines.

Take care

There is no shade at any of the stops. At least two litres of water per person, a hat, closed shoes. The condition of the site and access can change; check before you travel.