Hama’s khans and souq on foot: from Khan Burhan to the citadel mound

Most visitors see Hama through its norias, the great water wheels, and the banks of the Orontes. This walk follows the city’s trading side instead. It starts at Khan Burhan on the east bank of the river, passes the Khan Rustem Pasha of 1556 and the Ayyubid Souq al-Tawil, and ends at the southern foot of the citadel mound. Five stops, about 2300 metres on foot, three hours. Hama once had more than 30 khans, the merchants’ inns built round a courtyard; this line links two of those still standing.

The route

Khan Burhan is in the al-Hader quarter. Its courtyard measures 24 by 14 metres and is lined with shops, and inside it stands a small prayer hall known as the Efendi Mosque. The inscribed stone over the gate gives the year 1298 AH, that is 1880-1881. From here, walk south, cross the Orontes and reach al-Murabit Street on the west bank. This is the longest leg of the route, close to a kilometre.

The Khan Rustem Pasha is on the east side of the street. A wide gate opens into a passage with rooms on either side. Stop at the end of the passage: the arch frames the domed prayer hall in the middle of the courtyard exactly. People in Hama also call it the Soldiers’ Khan, because it served as a cavalry barracks under the Ottomans and during the French Mandate. Leaving, the same street takes you to the al-Murabit end of Souq al-Tawil.

The plan of the Long Market is Ayyubid; its roof is new. The stone vault collapsed over time and zinc sheeting replaced it. Two khans stand inside, Khan al-Sahn and Khan al-Hinna; ask a shopkeeper to find them. At the far end, by the al-Dabbagha entrance, stands the Sheikh Ibrahim al-Kaylani Mosque of 1667. Out of the souq, walk towards the citadel mound.

The al-Hasanayn Mosque sits right below the south side of the mound, by the road. Its two domes show two phases of the building: the western one is older, and Nur al-Din rebuilt the eastern one after the earthquake of 1157. The six-line inscription above the right of the door records that repair. The Cathedral of Saint George is a few minutes away, in a side lane off the road that rings the mound. It was completed in 1839. Its dome rests on a drum with 16 windows, and the bell tower stands apart from the church.

Timing

Be at Khan Burhan at 09:00; the market works in the morning. Set off around 09:45 and you reach the Khan Rustem Pasha at 10:00. Getting there before the open courtyard heats up is the point. The building may be in use, so ask at the gate before going in.

Enter Souq al-Tawil at 10:45 and give it forty minutes. Shop hours vary from section to section, and there is no confirmed timetable. Aim to reach the al-Hasanayn Mosque just after the noon prayer: the door opens around prayer times and may be shut in between. The cathedral opens for services. The door is most likely to be open on Sunday morning; on that day, reversing the route and starting at the cathedral is an option.

Take care

Khan Burhan, Souq al-Tawil, the al-Hasanayn Mosque and the cathedral are free. Access to the Khan Rustem Pasha changes, so confirm it at the entrance. The khans and the souq are working places of trade: ask before photographing shopkeepers and their stalls. At the mosque, cover shoulders and knees and do not go in during prayers. In the cathedral, do not take photos during a service.

There are other Greek Orthodox churches in the city, so use the name Mar Girgis when asking the way. The mound of Hama Citadel is just north of the last stop. If you have time, finish the walk by climbing it.