Khan al-Wazir

It stands on the road between the Aleppo Citadel and the Great Mosque, at the east end of the Al-Madina souq. It was built in 1682, and its name means “the vizier’s khan”. Caravans unloaded in the courtyard and merchants slept in the rooms upstairs. For a long time the cotton trade of the souq ran through this building.

Getting there

You come out of the souq onto Khan al-Wazir street, which takes its name from the building. Walking west from the citadel takes five minutes. There is no sign. If you see a huge arched entrance opening onto the street, you are in the right place.

What to see

The portal first. Courses of black basalt and white limestone interlock above the arch, round stone medallions sit on either side, and a carved double window crowns the whole thing. It is one of the most showy pieces of Aleppo stonework, and it is on a street rather than in a museum. Inside there is a square courtyard with two storeys of arcades; the ground floor held goods, the upper floor held people.

Where things stand

The Al-Madina souq was badly damaged in the fire of 2012. Repairs have gone on section by section since then, and which wing is open can change from week to week. The facade and portal of Khan al-Wazir are standing; work continues inside. Ask the traders before you go in.

What most people miss

The round medallions flanking the arch. The carving is worn, but the figures still read. Most visitors photograph the whole gate and walk on.