Qirqbize

A small settlement among the olive groves, its stone houses and courtyard walls still standing. It was lived in from Roman times until at least the 7th century. One building makes Qirqbize matter far beyond its size: a house church set inside a Roman dwelling, the oldest one preserved anywhere after Dura-Europos. It dates from the beginning of the 4th century.

Getting there

North-west of Idlib, seven kilometres south-east of Harim. The church of Qalb Lozeh is less than a kilometre away and the two fit into one walk. There is no public transport; hire a car and driver in Harim or Idlib, and expect the last stretch to be unsurfaced.

How long it takes

Forty-five minutes. The site is small. Put it together with Qalb Lozeh and you have half a day.

What to see

The core of the church is an ordinary house of the 2nd century: two rooms joined by a door, each opening onto the south front, with a colonnaded porch running along that side. The first Christians met in private houses; here the wall between the two rooms was taken out, leaving a single hall facing east. The hall is about 15 metres long. At its east end is a raised platform for the altar, with seating on it for 14 clergy. There are two doors in the south wall; the other three sides are closed and the windows are rectangular.

What most people miss

The stone sarcophagus at the north side of the chancel. It held the bones of a saint, and olive oil poured in from above ran over them and out below, where pilgrims caught it in small clay flasks to carry away. Northern Syria lived on the olive, and so did its worship. Most visitors look at the hall and turn back without noticing the arrangement.