From the Qaymariyya to Bab Sharqi: a walk east of the Umayyad Mosque

From the east wall of the Umayyad Mosque to the Roman east gate is 1200 metres. Four stops: a quarter, two cathedrals, a gate. The subject of this walk is not the single buildings but the fabric between them — lanes under vine shade, closed wooden doors, the courtyards behind them. Set the order west to east. That is how the light works.

The route

Leave by the east door of the Umayyad Mosque and cross over; the Qaymariyya begins there. The lanes run two or three metres wide, shops on the ground floor, homes still above. Instead of watching a map, take the Joura edge to the north and the Midhat Pasha line to the south as your bounds and wander in between. Drop south out of the quarter and in 300 metres you reach the courtyard of the Mariamite Cathedral; the front turns a narrow face to the lane, and when you see the bell tower you are there. From here turn east and follow the lane running parallel and north of Straight Street. After 600 metres you are in the Zaytoun quarter: the black and white portal of the cathedral opens onto a courtyard on your left, with olive trees inside it. The last 300 metres are easy. The mass of Bab Sharqi closes the line, and you cannot lose it.

Timing

Enter the Qaymariyya at 09:00. The lanes are narrow and tall; before the sun climbs, the difference between vine shade and wall still reads, and by afternoon it all falls to the same grey. Reach the Mariamite around 10:00. Outside service times the courtyard is quiet and going inside is no trouble. The Church of the Olive at 11:00. Both churches can shut their doors around midday, which is why they come one after the other. Be at Bab Sharqi by 11:30. The gate faces west and takes its light from the side before noon, so the ribs of the arch stand out at that hour. Afternoon is the second choice for this walk.

Take care

The Qaymariyya is not a sight, it is a quarter people live in. Do not look through open doors, do not step into courtyards, and ask before photographing anyone. Both cathedrals are working places of worship: shoulders and knees covered, no photographs during a service. The lanes are narrow and motorbikes come through; walk on the wall side. The paving is stone and damp in places, slippery in winter. On Friday midday the shops in the quarter close, but the walk still works. The day that really breaks this route is Sunday morning: services keep visits limited in both churches.