Dead Cities, second round: Jebel Barisha and Jebel al-A’la

The first round of the Dead Cities runs south, through al-Bara and Serjilla. This second round goes north instead: Jebel Barisha and Jebel al-A’la to the west of it. The three sites lie close together, and the day out of Idlib and back comes to 106 kilometres. Half of that is farm track, and slow. What you get for it is a Roman temple, two basilicas and the soundest olive presses in the Dead Cities, all in one day.

The route

Head north-west out of Idlib towards Harem; after 44 kilometres you are on the ridge of Jebel Barisha and Baqirha is visible from the road. Drop 6 kilometres south from Baqirha and you reach the village of Barisha; the ruins are north of it, out among the fields. From Barisha cross west into Jebel al-A’la: 13 kilometres, the last part stony and narrow. The return south into Idlib is 43 kilometres.

Timing

Leave at eight. Be at Baqirha by half past ten; the remains of the temple of Zeus, dated 161, first, then the complete standing west gable of the East Church and the lintel that carries the date 546. An hour and a half. Be at Barisha at midday and give the presses and the porticoed houses an hour. Cross to Behyo at two and allow two hours. Set off at four and be back in Idlib before dark.

Watch out

None of the three sites has a ticket, a sign or a toilet; buy water and food in Idlib. The stones shift, so do not climb onto the walls. Families live inside some of the ruins, so ask before you step into a courtyard. Unexploded ordnance warnings are still in force in this area: stay on the marked track, do not dig at the soil, and do not touch pieces of metal. Ask about the state of the countryside before you set out, and do not drive at night.