Half a day in Salihiyya: three mosques on the skirt of Qasioun

Salihiyya is not an extension of the old city but a quarter founded on its own. Hanbali families who moved from Jerusalem settled on the skirt of Mount Qasioun, and a second nucleus of the city grew outside the walls; its mosques, madrasas and tombs sit inside that nucleus. This walk starts at the square north of the Barada and works into the narrow gaps of the souq. It is 1400 metres, three stops, uphill the whole way.

The route

Begin at Jisr al-Abyad square. The mosque stands at the edge of the square, above the roadway; its dome shows from the pavement and you will not need a sign. From here take Muhyiddin Ibn Arabi Street north. The road climbs for 900 metres and the quarter changes as it goes: apartment blocks thin out, the souq begins, the street narrows. The Ibn Arabi Mosque sits inside the souq and only its minaret shows from the street — if you miss the entrance, steer by the minaret, since everyone in the souq knows the way. Coming out, turn northeast. The last 500 metres are the hardest, because the Hanabila Mosque gives no front to the street; you go in through a narrow gap between two buildings and it is hard to find without asking. Past the gap the courtyard opens all at once.

Timing

Be at Jisr al-Abyad by 09:00. All three stops are working mosques, and outside prayer times you can find the door shut, so an early start finished before noon is the safest plan. Reach the Ibn Arabi Mosque around 10:00: the courtyard is cool and empty at that hour, and the stair down to the tomb has not filled up. The Hanabila at 11:00. Its courtyard takes direct sun, and the colour of the stone reads lighter before midday. As the noon prayer approaches, visits stop in all three; close the plan accordingly. Friday is not the day for this route.

Take care

The walk climbs. This is not the steepest line in Damascus, but it is not flat either, so wear comfortable shoes. Entry is free at all three stops, shoes come off, and women are asked to cover their hair; most mosques keep a scarf to lend at the door. Do not enter the prayer hall or take photographs during prayer. Motorbikes use the lanes inside the souq. For the return there are minibuses from Salihiyya down to the old city, and walking down works too, about half an hour. In summer most of the line has no shade at midday.